The author of this article–As a formulator, I can’t help but be proud of my work every time I see certain brands that can sell a can of 50 grams of cream for a four-figure price: look, we It is also very valuable to work hard in the laboratory (usually making recipes are called burning materials in the industry)! But when I see many consumers indiscriminately chasing some expensive and scary products, I have a bit of worry: whether we do enough science popularization work so that consumers know how to choose products, instead of blindly following the trend and putting them in their pockets The money was spent for nothing. Several lady-level facial creams Before starting to talk about today’s topic, I think I need to popularize the cost structure of a common skin care product. In fact, a picture of the cost of Lancome’s small black bottles has been widely circulated on the Internet two years ago. The raw material cost of a small black bottle of muscle foundation priced at 1,080 yuan is actually only 21 yuan, which surprised many consumers and shouted that cosmetic companies are black-hearted traders. In fact, although the cost composition of various cosmetic companies is very different, the raw material cost of a bottle of cream or essence does only account for a small part of the selling price. If we look at the financial reports of most cosmetics companies (the financial reports are public), we will find that the gross profit of general cosmetics is around 70%~80%, which means a product of 100 yuan , Its cost may be only 20 to 30 yuan, and deducting the cost of packaging and production costs (machine and labor), the price of the real formula is generally only about 5%-10% of the selling price. Therefore, for most affordable products, due to strict cost control, it is difficult to have any room to play with the formula, and the bulk of it is marketed. Estee Lauder’s 2016 financial report returned to the theme of Lady Cream. Since the price of Lady Cream is extremely high (usually in four digits), according to the previous calculations, the cost of t Phenibut powder wholesale heir formula may be The control range is bound to be much larger than the ordinary one or two hundred yuan cheap products. Does this mean that their formula is superior, or the effect is better? So I found several well-known brands of ladies creams, and analyzed their formulas briefly, let us see what the essence of these ladies creams is after setting aside the influence of brands and advertisements of? (I need to insert a sentence here. Although there are many websites that will pop up the raw material list as soon as you enter the product name, such as COSDNA, etc., for the products sold in China, the most authoritative is the national food If the database of the National Food and Drug Administration is available, I can talk about how to find the formula of various products next time.)Screenshot of the National Food and Drug Administration database One debut is the “Key to Skin CPB Golden Cream” from CPB, a luxury brand owned by Shiseido. The price of 50 grams of face cream sold far exceeds that of similar competitors. Just looking at this packaging, you can distinguish it from other products at a glance (though I personally think it’s a bit of a local tyrant), and on the official homepage, there are A detailed introduction to the special massage technique when using this cream is enough to show the nobleness of this cream. When I checked its formula, I found that one of the characteristics of the lady cream is that it likes to smash the ingredients. This product has 61 kinds of ingredients, which is very exaggerated. However, in terms of the main ingredients, this cream is not particularly commendable. In terms of humectants, glycerin, butylene glycol, maltitol and trehalose are used. In terms of oil selection, a heavy oil (pentaerythritol tetra(ethylhexanoic acid) ester) and squalane are mainly used as skin conditioners. Surprisingly, it also chose petrolatum, a material that is currently controversial in Europe and America. In terms of active s Phenibut powder wholesale ubstances, Shiseido’s patented whitening and freckle removal ingredient 4MSK (potassium 4-methoxysalicylate) is added in a high amount, visually exceeding 1%. The content of other active substances is relatively small, but there are many types, from the moisturizer sodium hyaluronate to the anti-inflammatory dipotassium glycyrrhizinate to the extracts of various flowers, flowers, and grasses. Sure enough, the price of 7,000 yuan has given Shiseido formulators The freedom to add active substances at will (as a formulator is quite envious). Shiseido’s introduction to the mechanism of 4MSKThe next lady cream to be launched is Chanel’s new product this year “Luxury Essence Moisturizing Cream“. The price of 3,300 yuan looks relatively affordable Some, the packaging is relatively low-key. This product claims to be added with an extract of Vanilla paniculata found on the island of Madagascar, which has excellent anti-aging effects. Let’s see what is magical about its formula. Different from CPB cream, this lady cream from Chanel has only 40 ingredients, which is almost the same as ordinary creams. It seems that Chanel is not only simple in appearance, but also simple in formula. . From the perspective of oil components, the materials used are very solid. Jojoba seed oil and squalane rank second and third respectively, and other natural vegetable oils such as canola oil, shea butter, camellia seed oil, etc. It’s also quite a lot, which makes this cream a lot more attractive. Jojoba fruit photoAnother thing that surprised me is that the active content of this formula is indeed added in a sufficient amount, rye seed extract and various yeast extracts and anti The ranking of aging oligopeptides is very high. In addition, three types of vanilla flat-leaf vanilla were added, namely, vanilla flat-leaf fruit extract, vanilla flat-leaf orchid extract, and vanilla flat-leaf oil. It seems that this Chanel cited The proud magical plants do play an important role. Fla Phenibut powder wholesale t Leaf Vanilla and its extracts from Madagascar After analyzing the ingredients of the two lady creams, maybe everyone has a preliminary idea of ??the mystery of lady cream Understanding. In fact, when we use the lady cream, the ingredients are only one aspect that affects the use. Their fragrance, use and texture are all important factors. These seemingly vague and unquantifiable things are just the formula. Expensive reason. I have made several relatively expensive formulas in the laboratory before. In fact, it is not complicated in terms of process and technology, but how to achieve the feeling that consumers need requires countless adjustments to the composition of raw materials. . As a formulator, after trying several big-name lady creams, aside from packaging and publicity, most of the formulas themselves are quite good, whether it is from the pleasure of application or the carefully formulated color, The fragrance is much better than ordinary creams. It can be seen that these lady creams represent the highest level of every company. Back to the original theme, for ordinary consumers, should we buy lady cream to treat ourselves better? In fact, my answer is: do what you can. The material of the lady cream is solid, and the relative effect is better, but it is not suitable for every skin type and age group. In the product classification of many companies, the lady cream is generally classified into the anti-aging category, which means that most of the products are still positioned in the older people, and this part of consumers’ skin itself has a slower metabolism. , The skin is relatively dry, and there are various wrinkle problems, it is more suitable for such a solid formula. Young people between the ages of 20 and 25 generally have a strong metabolism and secrete more oil. Sometimes their skin problems do not need to be repaired with expensive skin care products, sleep a few times, exercise more, supplemented by simple skin care. Product is the best solution. —-The above content is from NetEase Aesthetics APP user: Rex, the formulator, please do not reprint without permission. More exciting is available in NetEase Aesthetics APP iPhone user APP download address: p>mei.163.com/appdownload?swebsite (Automatic identification of QR code)—-